Sunday, 31 January 2021

Now You See Gemma Chan

Moving between blockbusters and indie hits, Gemma Chan has kept one foot in stardom and one in anonymity. But this year, she's going famous full time.

BY ,ALICE WIGNALL 06/01/2021

When is a celebrity not a celebrity? When you’re Gemma Chan, of course – or so says Gemma Chan. ‘I don’t think of myself like that at all,’ she says. ‘My life is fairly low-key.’ What, because you don’t drive a gold Cadillac? She laughs. ‘I don’t live in a mansion, I don’t have an assistant,’ she says. ‘All that kind of stuff.’ Beauty Truths With Gemma Chan by Elle UK Previous VideoPlayNext VideoUnmute Current Time 0:39 / Duration 6:34 Loaded: 25.84% Fullscreen CLICK TO UNMUTE I remain unconvinced, and mount my counterargument, ticking off the evidence on my fingers: one, a starring role in an enormous movie franchise (Sersi in Eternals, part of the world-conquering juggernaut that is the Marvel Cinematic Universe, due for release in late 2020 but Covid-delayed until late 2021); two, a new contract with L’Oréal Paris as an international spokesperson; and, three, another recently announced UK ambassador role with Unicef. Guaranteed blockbuster, cosmetics contract, high-profile charity patron: this is the star-making Big Three; the trifecta of global fame. Come on, I say. This year, your face is going to be everywhere. ‘Er, yeah,’ she says, looking genuinely quite alarmed. MARCIN KEMPSKI Chan's path to this point has been one of steady progress, rather than precipitous acceleration, which is maybe why she finds it hard to contemplate the quantum leap her career is about to take. At 38, and with more than a decade and a half of experience behind her, she’s done it all: BBC bit parts (including Doctor Who and Sherlock) and a breakout TV role in Channel 4’s Humans; high-brow theatre and big-budget films (in Jack Ryan: Shadow Recruit, Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them and, indeed, a previous Marvel movie, as the sniper Minn-Erva in Captain Marvel. The two characters are unrelated but, as she points out, ‘I was painted blue for that whole job, so it’s not like I’m very recognisable’), but nothing on a scale likely to upend her life. The closest she’s come to that so far is her performance as Astrid in 2018’s surprise smash hit Crazy Rich Asians, which made $238.5m against a budget of $30m and became the top-earning romantic comedy of the Noughties. ‘[Because] Crazy Rich Asians did so well internationally, I definitely felt a shift at that time,’ Chan says. ‘Like, on the Captain Marvel press tour, not being able to walk through [Singapore] airport. Then again, things have settled and the slight craziness of that time has gone away. I do feel like I can – touch wood – go about my life normally now.’ MARCIN KEMPSKI The biggest impact, she says, was professional: ‘Before Crazy Rich Asians, I wasn’t being considered for lead roles in feature films. There [is] a very select group of actors in that pool and I wouldn’t even get an audition, I wasn’t in that conversation. Whereas now... I’m being talked about for certain things and then you may meet the director, or you at least get to have your shot. So that feels a bit different.’ Her most recent project is certainly the kind of job you can imagine being fought over in casting rooms around the world: hey, how would you like to get on a luxury cruise liner with acclaimed director Steven Soderbergh and a killer cast including, oh, I don’t know, Meryl Streep and make an intelligent comedy drama about betrayal, responsibility and enduring love? Who wouldn’t? But Chan was the one who was picked for Let Them All Talk, which was filmed on board the Queen Mary 2 as it crossed the Atlantic from New York to Southampton. It tells the story of a lionised novelist, played by Streep on magisterial form, en route to collect a prestigious writing award in England, accompanied by two old friends and her nephew. Chan is her recently promoted literary agent, who has also bought a ticket for the crossing, in the hope that she can clandestinely find out what her secretive client’s much-anticipated next book is about. I wasn’t being considered for lead roles in feature films ‘Obviously I jumped at the chance,’ says Chan. ‘It was a dream project.’ Though not a stress-free one: ‘A lot of the dialogue was improvised,’ says Chan. ‘There’s a scene, a lunch in New York with Meryl, which was actually the first scene that I shot. So I arrived on set and the restaurant was full of 200 extras; you could hear a pin drop. I went in and sat down, then Meryl came in and sat down, and we just had to improvise a scene. I don’t think I’ve ever had such a clenched bum! I was petrified. There I am, with possibly the greatest actress of all time, and... “Action!”’ There is an alternate timeline, of course, in which Chan genuinely isn’t famous. If she’d followed the path that her early years suggested, her current life would be, if not stress-free, less likely to include head-to-heads with multi-time Oscar winners. MARCIN KEMPSKI Raised in Kent to Chinese parents, she attended an academically selective school before studying law at Oxford. She also played violin to a high standard and swam competitively at a national level. All in all, the perfect image of a relentless high-achiever, bound for success in a stable career – until she took a post-graduation gap year swerve into acting, at first with evening classes, then a full-time course. Even now – when the gamble has decisively paid off – she sounds tentative when discussing her original ambitions to act. She did some am-dram at school, ‘but never thought, I could do this for a job.’ Embarking on her acting studies, the idea of a career was there, but ‘at the back of my mind’. That might be because this period of Chan’s life was fraught: her parents were alarmed that she declined a training contract with a prestigious London law firm, and thought she was making a mistake. Perhaps she still finds it hard to unequivocally state that the path she chose is not one they initially approved of. ‘The key for both of them and therefore for myself, and my sister, was the importance of education,’ she says. ‘It allowed my father to have a completely different life to his father, mother and some of his brothers and sisters. Both of my parents are immigrants who came from very humble backgrounds,’ she adds. ‘They definitely instilled in me a work ethic from a young age and a sense of, “The world doesn’t owe you a living, you have to make your own way.” At one point in my dad’s childhood, he was homeless. My amah, his mum, raised six kids on her own. They had absolutely nothing, they lived in a shack on a hillside in Hong Kong. I’m one generation away from that.’ You can sense the shadow of the lawyer she could have been when she talks, and almost hear the weighing up of pros and cons she has done to determine what steps to take. Of L’Oréal Paris, she says: ‘I have been a little bit cautious when it comes to brand partnerships and things like that. I wanted to wait till it felt like it was right. [I chose] L’Oréal because the brand stands for uplifting women and empowerment and they have a strong philanthropic side to what they do, such as their partnership with The Prince’s Trust.’ MARCIN KEMPSKI She talks about carefully considering joining the Marvel universe, knowing it could mean giving over a share of the next 10 years of her life (‘You’re not signing up for one film, because they have additional films and spin-offs and they cover themselves’). She chooses her words with utmost caution when talking about Eternals: ‘Marvel is pretty strict about these kinds of things and I’ve got an non-disclosure agreement like that,’ she says, miming a massive wodge of a legal document. She insists that alongside this diligence there’s a flip side to her personality: ‘I have a slightly rebellious nature. I wasn’t always the best behaved and, yeah, I do work hard but I’m also quite chaotic. Hopefully I’ve found a bit of balance but when I was younger I was like, “I’ll leave it as late as I can, then I’ll pull an all-nighter.” That’s kind of the person I was.’ It’s impossible to tell if this ‘rebellious’ streak would register on most people’s radars, or if it was only noticeable in the context of her own – or her family’s – high standards. I suspect you’d have to know her very well to find out, and she’s far too protective of her private life to make peeking through the veil a possibility. Despite – or perhaps because of – two long-term relationships with high-profile men (she dated comedian Jack Whitehall from 2011 to 2017, and has been in a relationship with actor Dominic Cooper since 2018), she doesn’t discuss her personal life. It’s not exactly a state secret – she makes mention of ‘my partner’ when talking about what she did in the first lockdown (volunteering pretty much full-time for her friend Lulu Dillon’s charity, Cook 19, delivering meals to London hospitals) and Cooper makes the odd appearance on her Instagram account – but she’s certainly not going to give rolling updates on her romantic life. Anything I share could become a story on a slow news day ‘Over 10 years, you learn the importance of privacy, what you choose to share and what you don’t. When you start out, you don’t even know what is important to keep for yourself – I didn’t anyway – whereas now I think there are certain things that I absolutely know, “That’s mine and it’s private.” For me, my comfort level is to have a clear distinction between what is for me and what I’m happy to talk about.’ I ask if she’s had any bad experiences with the press. ‘Nothing too horrendous, but some experiences of not having my wits about me. I’m aware now that anything I say could become a clickbait headline – well, on a slow news day.’ MARCIN KEMPSKI (As if to prove her point, in the week that we talk, Jack Whitehall makes headlines in multiple news outlets in the UK – and, indeed, around the world – for making an off-hand comment in an episode of his Netflix show that he ‘could have got married’ to Chan, but he ‘f*cked up my chance of that’. And, given that this was midway through a global pandemic, it wasn’t even a particularly slow news day.) What she's happy to share on her social media – in fact, what makes up the bulk of her feeds – are her thoughts on a range of social and political subjects, from domestic abuse campaigns, to equal access to education, to Black Lives Matter, to protesting against anti-Asian racism. Which doesn’t always go down well: ‘Every time you say anything political, if it’s in the most uncontroversial way, you’ll be criticised for it; you need to be prepared for that. Every time I post something [like that], I lose followers, so it’s probably not the best business sense...’. But she’s not going to stop: ‘I want to highlight things that are important to me but without preaching. I’m still working it out, how to be an advocate in the most effective way.’ MARCIN KEMPSKI I ask if she feels hopeful about the future, given the myriad challenges she mentions. She pauses. ‘I’ve definitely struggled and felt hopeless,’ she says. ‘I think most of us have realised how powerless we are in terms of the day-to- day governing of our [country]. There no longer seems to be any accountability; there’s a lack of shame. Things that a minister or an advisor would have resigned for 10 years ago, now there are no repercussions. That’s incredibly frustrating, especially when people’s lives are at stake. But, I do have hope – mainly because of the next generation. They’re more politically aware than I was, more involved. Often in the media the most boorish voices seem to monopolise headlines, but actually there are decent people who want to make things better for their fellow humans. There are more of them than youmight think. During the pandemic, obviously it was a terrible time, but there were things that sprung up on a local community level of people trying to help each other. That was encouraging.’ Every time you say anything political, you’ll be criticised for it And, of course, last year Black Lives Matter protests pushed questions about race and identity to the forefront as never before. How does Chan feel about her own role in increasing representation as a British Asian? ‘I get moments where I think, I wish we didn’t have to talk about race anymore. In the same way I wish we didn’t have to talk about why it’s unusual to have a female lead. Why is it still the exception? Why is it still so unusual to have half of the human race being centred in these stories? It seems ridiculous to still be flagging that as a talking point.’ She talks about a structure that actor Riz Ahmed has described: on tier one, a minority actor will play stereotypical, reductive roles. On tier two, your race is still prominent, but the character is nuanced and well-rounded. ‘And the holy grail is tier three, where you’re just viewed as a human. But, while we’re still working towards that goal of much more equal representation, it’s going to be something that we have to be more consciously aware of, and it is going to be part of the conversation.’ It’s a classic Gemma Chan answer. I can feel the burn of her frustration, and I see how she’s thought through her best approach. She’s got a goal, and she knows how to get there. MARCIN KEMPSKI As for her own goals – well, there’s a packed schedule ahead: when we talk, she’s about to join Florence Pugh and Chris Pine for director Olivia Wilde’s follow-up to Booksmart, Don’t Worry Darling. Then, when the pandemic allows, there are the delayed back-to-back shoots for Crazy Rich Asians 2 and 3, not to mention the release of Eternals. She’s also set up a production company, which is working on a range of projects focusing on ‘women whose stories haven’t been given their due, who are these unsung heroes of history’. She loves producing (‘You get a bit more control’), so much so that one day it might be all she does. ‘There may be a point where I want to take a step back from the acting side and, if the producing is established by then, that would be great.’ Hmm, I think. The thing about being globally famous is that once you are, it’s kind of hard to stop. But if anyone can manage blockbusters one month, normal life the next, it’s someone with a big brain, a ton of experience and her eye on the prize. Someone a bit like Gemma Chan. So, when is a celebrity not a celebrity? We might be about to find out. Gemma is an international spokesperson for L’Oréal Paris and the face of Revitalift Filler Day Cream. ELLE's February 2021 issue hits newsstands on January 7 2021.

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Sunday, 24 January 2021

Patrick Mahomes had top-selling jersey in NFL this season and dominated weekly sales

The Chiefs will open the playoffs hoping to maintain their place as the best team in the NFL.

Meanwhile, quarterback Patrick Mahomes kept his spot at No. 1 — in jersey sales.

In April, the NFL Players’ Association announced Mahomes was atop the year-end NFLPA Top 50 Player Sales List, supplanting quarterback Tom Brady, who was with the Patriots. That list includes sales of all officially licensed NFL player-identified merchandise, including jerseys.

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In December, the NFLPA revealed Mahomes was still in first on that list, ahead of Brady, who is now with the Buccaneers. That was for sales from March 1 to Aug. 31.

Mahomes and Brady also ended up finishing the 2020 regular season as the top two in jersey sales, per Fanatics.

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Michael Rubin, the executive chairman of Fanatics, wrote on Twitter: “No other sport sees jersey sales move as much week-to-week as the NFL.”

Rubin also shared a graphic that shows the top 10 sales by week in the NFL season. While you can see the fluctuation in jersey sales, the numbers for Mahomes were dominant. His jersey spent 10 of the 17 weeks at No. 1.

Look close and you can see Chiefs tight end Travis Kelce briefly crept into the top 10 late in the season.

Fanatics said the data used to create the graphic came from sales across the Fanatics network of sites, including NFLShop.com and 25 official online team stores.

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source https://www.online-digitalstore.com/post/patrick-mahomes-had-top-selling-jersey-in-nfl-this-season-and-dominated-weekly-sales

Saturday, 23 January 2021

The Deep Meaning of the Color Purple at the Biden Inauguration

It’s the color of royalty, the badge of honor bestowed on heroic soldiers, and a call for unity at a time of political division.

BY JESSICA IREDALE JAN 20, 2021

The inauguration of President Joseph R. Biden and Vice President Kamala Harris’s was awash in the color purple. From Dr. Jill Biden’s head-to-toe violet ensemble by Jonathan Cohen Studio the night before to the brilliant shade of Harris’s jewel-toned coat and dress to the rich plum tone of former First Lady Michelle Obama’s swaggering jacket, turtleneck and wide-leg trousers cinched with a demonstrative gold buckle belt for the ceremony itself.

Harris and Obama were dressed by two young Black American designers who grew up in the South, Christopher John Rogers and Sergio Hudson, respectively. (Hudson also designed Harris’s pumps.)

Vice President Kamala Harris, in Christopher John Rogers, and former First Lady Michelle Obama, in Sergio Hudson, at the Biden inauguration.OLIVIER DOULIERYGETTY IMAGES

Former Senator, Secretary of State, presidential candidate and First Lady Hillary Clinton wore a vivid purple Ralph Lauren pantsuit and matching scarf under a deep maroon coat, a nod to the Ralph Lauren pantsuit she wore to deliver her concession speech in 2016. Former First Lady Laura Bush’s ladified jacket danced on the line between lilac and powder blue, and Senator Amy Klobuchar channeled the hue with her scarf. Even outgoing Vice President Mike Pence’s tie, typically ruby red, appeared to be plucked from the burgundy region of Pantone's purple family.

Hillary Clinton in Ralph Lauren at President Joe Biden’s inauguration.JONATHAN ERNSTGETTY IMAGES

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The color purple is rich with symbolism. It’s the color of royalty, and as Gwendolyn Dubois Shaw, senior historian of the Smithsonian’s National Portrait Gallery, points out, “Our democracy came out of a monarchy and colonial situation. We've never had our own royalty so we tend to project that desire.”

It’s the color of the Purple Heart, the badge of honor and bravery bestowed by the United States military on veterans wounded or killed in the line of duty. It’s the title of Alice Walker’s 1982 Pulitzer Prize-winning novel about the plight of African American women in the South, a parallel with meaning not lost on the occasion of the swearing in of Harris, the first woman, the first Black and South Asian American to the office of Vice President.

Second Gentleman Doug Emhoff and Vice President Kamala Harris at Wednesday’s presidential inauguration.ANGELA WEISSGETTY IMAGES

But today the color purple was also as simple as 1, 2, 3. Paint by numbers: red + blue = purple. It was a call for unity to heal the great schism between the Republican and Democratic parties’ reds and blues that have drifted into caustic, violent contention in the last 12 years.

One could argue it’s just fashion, nothing more than colorful dresses, coats and ties. But sartorial gestures have the potential to take on great meaning. Seeing a few flashes of purple on Wednesday morning was much different than the wave of red hats that dominated the National Mall four years ago.

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Wednesday, 20 January 2021

For Casadei, a Family Business Goes Global

From simple sandals for tourists to styling Beyoncé, the Italian company has come a long way in 60 years.

In Italy a shoe is not just a shoe. A stiletto is drama, fireworks, an aria of sex appeal and design. Shoemakers talk about their creations as if the higher the heel, the closer to heaven. Arianna Casadei is not a designer, but shoes are her birthright—she is the granddaughter of the Casadei brand’s founders—and she preaches the gospel of fine footwear as smoothly as anyone. A good pair of heels, she says, knocks the wind out of you, “un pugno allo stomaco.

“It’s the accessory that, better than anything else, can lift your mood, embrace your personality, make you feel…” She pauses, searching for the word in English. “Complete.”

Arianna Casadei is the daughter of the Casadei brand founders.PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMANUEL TOSI

Based on that premise, the Casadeis cultivated a business that turns 60 this year, riding what began as a mom-and-pop operation selling sandals for tourists on the Italian Riviera into annual revenues of nearly $40 million.

We are focused on our past, but not in nostalgia. —Arianna Casadei

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When Beyoncé announced the Mrs. Carter Show World Tour at the Super Bowl in 2013, she did it in a pair of over-the-knee red boots by Casadei’s father Cesare, the label’s creative director, whose designs are ubiquitous on Hollywood red carpets.

At 30, Casadei is the third generation in the family trade, and she’s writing its next chapter as global marketing and communications director, pushing it to expand its e-commerce firepower and adapt beyond evening classics to the changing needs of working women.

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A new anniversary capsule collection, for instance, shows off the label’s famous stainless steel “blade” heel enveloped in a plexiglass structure, but reduced to a more versatile, and comfortable, two-inch slingback.

“Modern women want shoes they can wear from day to night. It’s totally different from the ’80s. They don’t have to wear stiletto pumps to the office anymore,” Casadei says. She, for one, does not. At the factory in San Mauro Pascoli, she cut a dramatic figure gliding through the workshop in a pink paisley Dries Van Noten suit and sensible one-inch booties—in a leopard print, no less.

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source https://www.online-digitalstore.com/post/for-casadei-a-family-business-goes-global

Tuesday, 19 January 2021

The four fashion trends we'll be seeing a lot of in 2021, according to BT's fashion director

Luxury fashion retailer Brown Thomas showcased its spring/summer 21 collections via Zoom this season, a sign of the times but also one that alludes to adaptability amidst a maelstrom of change.

Lockdown 3.0 notwithstanding, the presentation was vivid and exuberant with a sense of optimism for brighter times ahead.

“It’s very colourful and totally different from what we’ve seen before,” says Brown Thomas fashion director, Shelly Corkery, while “keeping the current climate at the forefront of all our lines in terms of what people will be wearing for the season and to introduce it in a positive way”.

As the moratorium on day-to-day life continues, it is this everyday exuberance that makes for a sartorial mood-booster.

1. EVERYDAY EXUBERANCE

Brown Thomas spring summer 2021 : ISABEL MARANT jumpsuit €690

Maximalist glamour is reimagined for at-home realities with elegant iterations of easy-to-wear pieces. Think stylish sweatshirts, long tunics and ballooning trousers offering an alchemy of chic comfort for bodies at rest.

Look to Dries Van Noten for kaleidoscopic-sprinkled energy parlayed in jeans, cardigans, and midi-skirts or Parisian golden girl Isabel Marant whose 1980’s disco- daytime fusion guarantees an evening dressed to chill.

2. ACID BRIGHT FUTURE

Brown Thomas spring summer 2021 : BALMAIN green dress €1790

In contrast to the banality engendered by extended periods of self-sequester, spring sees a respite from reality in a cache of reverse palette-cleansers. Expect acid brights to leave a phosphorescent glow as evidenced by strong structured shoulders in neon yellow and pink at Balmain or Stella McCartney’s conscious coupling of raspberry sorbet and mint. Should the prospect of a clean slate appeal, take heart in the equal presence of warming butter, cream, and caramel tones.

3. SLOUCHY TAILORING

Brown Thomas spring summer 2021 : ACNE oversized blazer €790

Wherever you fall on the spectrum, the abiding mood of relaxation is a given.

Whether a knee-jerk reflex to months of restriction or a prescient transition into IRL life, silhouettes are slouchy; oversized and fit for functionality. Tailoring continues to shape the fashion landscape, now with a deconstructed DNA and welcome fluidity.

Cult label Acne Studios injects Swedish design codes within a comforting oversized embrace; Dior’s indigo ‘Barre’ kimono and wide-legged culottes serve up regal realness; as for MaxMara’s laidback-luxe suiting – take it as a cue to upgrade your loungewear game.

4. ELEVATED BASICS

Brown Thomas spring summer 2021 : Miu Miu high-neck sleeveless top €590 & skirt €650.

Speaking of which, the new vanguard of elevated basics – those that reflect our collaborative culture of micro-teams, pods and bubbles – gains new relevance.

Designers accentuate the easy versatility and comfort of jersey and incorporate decorative detailing to offer a light-hearted and escapist mood, best seen at Balenciaga and Céline. While prim and pristine low-riding track pants and vibrant striped knitwear find expression at Miu Miu, it was Valentino’s surprise collaboration with Levi’s that elevates denim to the doyenne of daywear. As per the prevailing mood, fits are looser and longer, some with puddle hems but ultimately, to paraphrase Victoria Beckham, about sensing the winds of change: what women will want to wear on the other side. Spoiler alert: you’ll be seeing more of the statement shirt. Consider those waist-up wardrobe conundrums a thing of the past. This season’s conference call staple runs the gamut from ruffled tiers at Red Valentino to neckerchief collar throwbacks at Erdem. Lace, macramé, crochet, and embroideries also provide textural couture accents for virtual living which add a crafty, more palpable human touch – a luxury in days of social-distancing.

Brown Thomas spring summer 2021: VICTORIA BECKHAM patchwork flared jeans €490 and shirt €790.

As for new ready-to-wear brands? Sea NY, Tove, La Collection, Woolrich and Ulla Johnson join the rails while Balmain, MaxMara, Dolce & Gabbana and Victoria Beckham mainline continue their Leeside residency.

Fashion may not flatten the curve but in times of uncertainty, its stylish salve is a welcome escape valve. The future can and will be bright again. Let’s remind ourselves of that.



source https://www.online-digitalstore.com/post/the-four-fashion-trends-we-ll-be-seeing-a-lot-of-in-2021-according-to-bt-s-fashion-director

Beyoncé Sizzles In Lime Green Mini Dress To Celebrate Balmain Creative Director Oliver Rousteing

BY NANDI HOWARD · APRIL 29, 2021 Beyoncé’s surely blessed Instagram for the month of April. Pre-pandemic, the entertainer’s social profil...